* Caution: Its a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG Post!
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The following blog owes its credit to Bhupi (writeup, numbers, details), Navnit (photography) and Prashant (photography)
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4 Riders, 4 Bikes, 6000kms, 5 Indian States, 2 Countries, 1 Helluva Ride!
Four different characters set out on a journey, a journey to satiate their perennial biker's itch. With no laid rules or plans but just a dream of a mesmerizing riding experience on the mystic roads of Nepal, saddled up on an early chilly morning on the Mumbai -Agra Highway. Before we start, a brief character description about the riders for readers who haven't met us.
Prashant: The most experienced person in terms of age, he is 32 for cry not loud! He
Navnit: The most experienced guy on roads. His experience did show up whether it
Bhushan: The most unprepared rider on the trip.
Bhupesh: After having a bad experience with this bike in Leh, he just wa
He wears a wig and has a fake moustache :)
Great rider! Ripping the throttle on the streets of Lucknow with him was some old fashioned fun!
The initial route plan:
Mumbai - Sendhwa ~ 460 km
Sendhwa - Sanchi ~ 400 kmSanchi - Lucknow ~ 450 km
Lucknow - Rupandehi (Indian side) - Nepalganj(Nepal Side) ~ 140 km
To enter Nepal there are about 5 entry exit points as below:
1) Kakrbhitta through Siliguri, Darjeeling
2) Birgunj through Raxaul(Indian Town) for Patna and Calcutta
3) Nautanwa(Indian Town) Sanuali Border through Gorakhpur
4) Rupandehi(Indian Town) to NepalGanj through Lucknow
5) MahendraNagar-Banbasa(Indian Town) 250kms from Delhi
Day1: With Indore as today's halt, we set off from Thane with Appu and Sudhir to see us off at 6 am. Since it was early in the morning we covered up a good distance. Halted a few km’s before Nashik to answer the nature’s call, and we got our first Kodak moment. Navnit had left a few traces of the call on his shoes and pants, and when asked he replied, 'Maa c***ane gaya!, main jaldi mein tha...' We clicked some CLOSE up pics of his, and moved on. Reached Nashik by 8.10am Had breakfast, a heavy one. The stretch from Mumbai to Nashik was under way to become a four lane highway so a good number of diversions and bumpy roads greeted us. Post Nashik till Dhule the road was a delight, a kick ass four laned highway.
Reaching Malegaon we found a mechanic and the issue was identified with his front wheel bearing, changed them and got moving . Just as we were about to leave, we realised we were surrounded by layers of local people. With a Riding jacket, knee pads and funky helmets we were definitely a part of a movie crew, probably Dhoom - 2 at that point of time. People kept throwing questions at us and soon we became celebrities of the town in no time.
As soon as we entered M.P we could make out the difference. The roads on this side were in a real bad shape, bumpy with a good number of potholes. The traffic was equally bad. A few 120 km before Indore, Navnit started to have a bad back ache and we decided to ride back to the nearest town Sendhwa as the pit stop for the day. Got a room where Navnit dozed off . We just had around 400+ km to cover to reach Sanchi the next day and so we decided we could afford to down a bottle of Old monk on this really chilly night.
Day2: First Day of riding is always tiring , no wonder we got up around 9. With not much to cover we were at ease. What we didn't consider was the quality of M.P roads. After a heavy break fast we left sendhwa by 12. On the way we came across a few ghats, wherein the understanding between the truck drivers almost killed us. On the ghats on every turn suddenly the traffic switched lanes. On the bends all the trucks climbing up would drive on the right side (American Ishtyle) and those descending down would drive on their right side and we kept fumbling between them trying to grasp this sudden change. But it was indeed thoughtful so that the heavy trucks climbing up could have more turning area. Making note of this we moved ahead roads which were getting bad to worse. Just a day on MP Roads and the damage had been done. Navnit lost his horn, I lost my rear number plate, rear guard, tail light, speedo meter, etc. As if this was not enough on the way at some village while we were over taking a bus, someone threw a stale banana out of the window and as usual I was the choosen one.
Day3:We got up by 8 30 a.m. and left around 10 to visit the Sanchi Stupas. A really beautiful well maintained structure with greenery around. The place is really peaceful and of historic importance. We had images, of our school history text books' cover pages that had Ashoka pillar and Stupa entrances, in our minds and kept matching them with those in front of us.
“JAB JAB KHANA HO BHINDI... TOH AA JAANA CINDY!”
"SAAMAAN BADA HAI ISKA MATLAB YEH NAHI KE DIN BHAR DING DONG KARTA PHIRU!"
Day4: Today was to explore the Khajuraho Temples and the much heard about s
Day5: We had around 550 km to cover today in order to reach Gorakhpur and keeping that in mind we started at around 6:30am. If pitch darkness was not enough, we had our first encounter with fog and to add to that we had the dipping temperatures. We started off really slow only to pick up our speeds post sunrise. Soon we entered U.P. If roads in M.P were worst U.P was a nightmare. We could hardly cover up to 20 km in an hour. We stopped for a quick samosa chai break and started looking for other alternate routes. After oodles of time being spent staring at the road guide, we decided to take up a state highway assuming that it would be much better in shape and would have less traffic.
With random people doing weird antics, as weird as halting in the middle of the highway getting down, running towards us and then clicking a pic of a road sign next to us which read."I love you darling... but not so fast!" to people trying to check their mobile network on the divider, we were entertained for every second of those 4 hours. My only mechanical activity of applying grease took place here :)
With multiple discussions over dinner and the dhaba owners warning us about the 'loot-maar' issue on the highway, we decided we would instead go to lucknow and enter Nepal from Rupandehi. Had we entered through Gorakhpur Kathmandu would been very close, but from Rupandehi it was a good 600kms. We tought its better to ride on better roads in Nepal than waste more time on our U.P. roads. We reached Lucknow by around midnight, found a room, ensured safe parking of our bikes and crashed with a plan of leaving as early as possible, hopefull by 5:00am
Day6: Our plan for today was to reach Khatmandu which was a good 800kms from where we were. Apparently I was the only guy who woke up at 5:00. We started from lucknow by 9 with around 200 km to reach the Nepal border, which we eventually reached by 3pm. I got a rear number plate made for myself just incase the border authorities would require it. Indians do not require any passport to enter Nepal, all you need to get are permits for the number of days you plan to stay at Nepal, also called as ''Bhansal'' for which you need to pay.
The custom officers on our side with their pot bellies hanging out, acted as if riders coming from Maharashtra to Nepal was a regular deal and without much hesitation gave us a clearance. Once you walk on the no mans land and enter Nepal, the army officials on their side have a smart blue colour camouflaged uniform and to our surprise even female officers at the checkpost.
Our fancy v
You need to get temporary number plates for your vehicles. You can get your currency converted at the border or there are several places where you can get it done. Actually you dont need to get it converted since Indian Currency is used freely in Nepal. We converted a few for safety & souvenirs :)
On the Indian side you need to declare your belongings and some other paperwork. Within an hour we completed all the formalities and we were in Nepal. It was already 6 and Kathmandu was still some 600 km away. We decided to stay at Nepal Gaunj (first town on Nepal side) and with my bargaining skills at best, we got two luxorious rooms for a total of Rs.300 for the night. A bowl of delicious thukpa saw an end to this day. What is thukpa?? GOOGLE IT :)
Day7: Today was the day when we would finally ride on the Mahendra Nagar Highway which Bhupi kept talking about. The fog and cold made me wear an innerwear, 2 T-shirts, double jeans, double socks, my riding jacket, and a rain coat on top of it. The riding temperature was below 5 degrees and the fog cleared off by the time we reached the Mahendra Nagar Highway. We were really excited and the highway did not let us down.
Finding a budget room here was like a never ending task! With autowallahs trying to sell alcohol, hashish, prostitutes, cheap cigarettes, dance bars, massage parlours, etc we managed to seek a kickass room for a decent amount. When Bhupi and me paid the advance and steped out of the hotel, we saw a bunch of Nepali guys standing outside in a group. They were talking amongst each other and from no where, this one guy gave a kung-fu style kick to the other guy. Bhupi and me shat in our pants and quickened our pace towards Navnit and Prashant. With the advance being paid we had no option but to stay in that hotel. Luckily the hotel was very nice, and those were just random guys who had no relation to the hotel :)
Day8: We had planned on visiting the Tibet border for bungee jumping but we had to cancel it due to bad weather. We spent the whole day exploring Thamel and we were not disappointed a bit. We shopped for some great jackets, shoes, customized bikers t-shirts, etc.
Day9: We left around 9 and had some 300 km of ghats to reach Pokhara., which everyone in Thamel said has breathtaking views. Taming the curvy roads we realized what we had missed the other day while we entered Kathmandu through these ghats during the night.
The views were enchanting and we kept halting for photos capturing vibrant pastures, mountains, villages, all that we could take back as memories of this beautiful part of the world.
Every small settlement/restaurant/dhaba etc serves alcohol. Its hard to find medicines but no matter where you are in Nepal, you are never too far from alcohol.
While the others were having tea I thought of giving a shot to the local lemon flavoured beer called Jolly Shandy. It tasted of mountain dew and probably had a hint of beer in it. After a few sips I thought tea was a better option only to realise that the others left their tea thinking the lemon flavoured beer was a better option. So wasting 4 bottles of Jolly Shandy and 4 cups of weird tasting tea, we set off towards Pokhra.
After an enchanting ride we reached Pokhara by around 5.30, just missing the sunset. Pokhara Lake offers breath taking sights of the Himalayas, and other mountain ranges and sunsets have a dazzling effect on the lake and the mountains. Clicking few pics we decided to move post our dinner as we were supposed to reach Bhutwal the very day.
We started looking for budget rooms, and Prashant and me waited while Bhupi and Navnit set of on Navnits bike to search for a hotel. Meanwhile Prashant and me had a tough time dealing with drunk Nepalis randomly throwing stones at a Western Union Money Transfer glow sign and another drunk old woman who thought my bike belonged to her.
It took these guys a good 2 hours to return, with neither of them answering their phone. They had met this drunk police officer who wanted us to stay in his hotel and had taken them to some place interior. He ate through their ears talking about how much he loves Indians, and also said, "I HAVE TWO CAMELS IN RAJASTHAN... SINCE BOTH ARE MALE, I NAMED THEM LUCKY!" Don't ask us for a reason/explanation... dint the man make it clear enough... both were male so he named them lucky!
Both of them lost their way while returning and a dog sleeping on the road made them realise that they needed to turn right from the dog since they had passed him earlier... God bless the dog for not moving around!We ended up staying at a hotel right across the road where Prashant and me waited for over two hours. We got a four bed occupancy room which was like Rs.350, YAY!Looking at the political conditions in Nepal we decided we would make an exit from Bhutwal to Gorakhpur giving the rest of the Mahendra Nagar Highway a miss.
*CAUTION: REALISING THE BLOGS GOING WAY TOO LONG... IM GONNA CUT IT SHORT IN THE FOLLOWING DAYS :)
We were advised not to ride through the night since there was a lot of checking due to the Republic day. We decided that we would stay at Gorakhpur and do a non stop to Agra the other day.
Day11: We had around 800 km to cover to reach Agra. It was Republic Day and patriotism was in the air. With the Tiranga on our bikes we zipped through UP villages witnessing the celebrations that still go on even after years of being a Republic country. Riding on this special day was ecstatic.
Day12: With a couple of hours of sleep, we started our ride by 7 and covered the remaining distance really quick. By afternoon we had our first view of the Taj Mahal and it was worth all the pain we took the previous night. The structure looked mesmerizingly colossal. We got a room and some much needed sleep while our bikes were getting serviced. Evening was spent roaming around the Taj Mahal and feasting on some delicious Chat items.
Day13: The first sight of Taj Mahal and we started clicking all we could. No words can describe the passion, the splendor, the effort behind this wonder of the world. We were so enchanted by the beauty of the monument that we wanted our bikes along with the Taj Mahal to be captured on lens.
Day14: I met good'ol friend Rahul who had already booked a room for us and was waiting with a bottle of good'ol Old Monk! :) The plan was to explore Jaipur and indulge in the Royal experience the city has to offer. We indulged in the local cuisine, clicking pics around the forts and the royal structures. We also visited the Rang De Basanti fort :) By evening we left for Ajmer, again we kept falling in love with the roads and the food of Rajasthan.
Day15: Today was a puncture day. Just after taking the blessings of Ajmer Sharif as we saddled up we realized we had a puncture in one of the bikes. The plan was to reach Sambhar lake and ride on the dry, sandy surface of the lake. We had to struggle a lot to reach the lake with wrong directions, riding on railway tracks for couple of hours, with multiple punctures. The spectacle called Sambhar lake we had ahead of us was just worth it. We clicked few of our most amazing pics here. On our way back to Ajmer we decided to raid sambhar once more for an elongated photo session.
Day16: We couldn't believe that we were riding 200 km just to click photos, but that was the beauty of the place. After clicking to our heart contents we decided that we would do a non stop to Mumbai.
We had a late Lunch by 6 and started the Climax of our epic ride, covering approximately 1200 km in 26 hours with just 3 hours of sleep. Midway Prashant had an engine seize near Udaipur and stayed back to sned his bike through Gati. We reached Mumbai 1.p.m after spending the whole day riding only to find our fellow bikers from the group to cheer us back home. We slept after a story telling and photo sharing session, trying to engulf the feeling that we had completed the ride on time. Prashant reached a day after.
It was one wicked ride, with almost 7 hrs spent in the ajmer - sambhar - ajmer(200kms, with a huge photo shoot) stint, it was almost 1200kms in approx 28hrs...riding through tonnes of diversions in Gujrat, we finally reached fountain by 1am
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Summing it up:
Riders: Bhupesh Tripathi, Bhushan Dhade, Navnit Lekshminarayanan & Prashant Pandey
Rides: 2 RE Machismo 500cc, 1 RE Thunderbird 350cc and 1 RE Electra 350cc
Total days:16
Total distance covered: ~6000kms+
Route:Mumbai - Indore - Sanchi - Khajuraho - Kanpur - Lucknow - Nepalganj - Khatmandu - Gorakhpur - Agra - Jaipur - Ajmer - Udaipur - Ahmedabad - Surat - Daman - Mumbai!
Breakdowns: Seized Engine, Several punctures, chain sprocket, battery issues, wiring issues, etc
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Ride featured in the August'10 issue of BIKE - India
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AR9ecJY6mQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4UPx1MRX4M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjqwCFTVIWw
Pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/bhushan.dhade/NepalRide#
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Please Note:
RIDE RESPONSIBLY
All images used in this blog are original, unedited and sole property of the author.